A jigsaw is a handheld saw with a short, narrow blade that moves up and down to cut curves, circles, and irregular shapes. It’s the most versatile handheld cutting tool in the shop — capable of curves, straight cuts, plunge cuts, and bevel cuts — but it has quirks that trip up beginners.
Here’s everything you need to know to use one well.
What a jigsaw is good at (and not good at)
Good at:
- Curved cuts (circles, arcs, organic shapes)
- Cutting out sink holes in countertops
- Plunge cuts in the middle of a panel
- Cutting notches and irregular shapes
- Cutting materials a circular saw handles poorly — tile, metal (with the right blade), foam, laminates
Not good at:
- Long, perfectly straight cuts (a circular saw or track saw does this better)
- Precision joinery cuts (a hand saw or miter saw is more controlled)
- Very fast stock removal
Use the jigsaw for curves and awkward cuts. Use a circular saw for long straight rips. Use them together — circular saw for the straight edges of a cabinet back, jigsaw for the arched top of a headboard.
The blade: most of what you need to know
Jigsaw performance depends almost entirely on blade selection. The wrong blade produces burning, tear-out, wandering cuts, and slow progress.
Blade material:
- HCS (High Carbon Steel): Flexible, for soft materials — wood, plastic, soft metals. Dulls faster.
- HSS (High Speed Steel): Harder, for metal cutting. Brittle in wood.
- Bi-metal: The best general-purpose choice. Flexible HSS body with harder teeth. Cuts wood and metal, lasts longer.
- Carbide-tipped: Longest life. Used for hardwoods, abrasive materials, fiber cement.
Teeth per inch (TPI):
- 6–10 TPI: Fast cuts in wood. Rough finish, large teeth, aggressive.
- 10–14 TPI: General woodworking. Balance of speed and finish.
- 14–24 TPI: Smoother cuts in wood, cuts metal, laminates, plastics.
Rule of thumb: fewer teeth = faster but rougher. More teeth = slower but cleaner.
Tooth direction: Most jigsaw blades cut on the upstroke — this means tear-out appears on the top face of the workpiece. If your good face is the top (visible) side, use a reverse-tooth blade (cuts on the downstroke) to keep tear-out on the bottom. Alternatively, put the good face down and cut from the back.
Settings: orbital action and speed
Orbital action: Most jigsaws have an orbital setting (0 to 3, or similar). Orbital action moves the blade slightly forward on the cutting stroke for more aggressive cutting and faster material removal — at the cost of a rougher cut.
- Orbital 0: Straight up-and-down blade motion. Cleanest cut, slowest. Use for laminates, melamine, plastics, thin sheet goods.
- Orbital 1–2: Moderate. General wood cutting.
- Orbital 3: Most aggressive. Fast cuts in softwood, rough framing material.
Start at a lower orbital setting and increase if you want more speed, accepting a rougher result.
Speed (SPM — strokes per minute): Variable speed triggers are standard. General guidance:
- Softwood, plywood: high speed
- Hardwood: medium speed
- Plastic: low-medium speed (prevents melting)
- Metal: low speed with cutting fluid or lubricant
- Tile/fiber cement: low speed (specialty blade required)
Technique: how to make accurate cuts
Mark your line clearly. A pencil line directly on the cut face (or on tape over the face — tape also reduces tear-out). The blade follows where you guide it; if the line is vague, the cut will be too.
Support the workpiece. Jigsaw blades cause significant vibration. The workpiece must be clamped or firmly supported — not just resting on a sawhorse. Unsupported material vibrates, causes poor cuts, and can bind the blade.
Don’t force the saw. Let the blade do the cutting. Pushing harder doesn’t speed up the cut — it bends the blade, causing it to wander. Blade wander is the most common complaint with jigsaws. The fix is: sharp blade, correct TPI, appropriate speed, and no forcing.
Guide the saw with both hands. One hand on the handle (trigger), one steadying the shoe on the workpiece surface. The shoe (the flat metal base) should stay flush to the material. If it’s lifting, you’re pushing too fast.
For curves: Make relief cuts first for tight curves. A relief cut is a straight cut from the edge into the waste material near the curve line — it allows you to remove waste in pieces so the blade doesn’t have to bend through a long curve.
For plunge cuts: Tilt the saw forward so the front of the shoe rests on the surface. Start the blade, then slowly lower the back of the saw until the blade enters the wood and the shoe is flat. Plunge cuts require careful control — start slowly.
For circles: Use a circle-cutting jig. Most jigsaws can accept a guide rod that pivots from a center point, allowing you to cut a perfect circle of any diameter. Extremely useful for speaker cutouts, sink holes, and decorative circles.
Common mistakes and how to fix them
Blade wandering (cut veers off the line):
Cause: Pushing too fast, dull blade, wrong blade for material, too-high orbital setting.
Fix: New blade, slower feed rate, reduce orbital action.
Tear-out on top face:
Cause: Standard upstroke blade.
Fix: Reverse-tooth blade, or place good face down.
Blade breaking:
Cause: Forcing the saw around too-tight a curve, blade binding in a poorly-supported workpiece, or wrong blade for material.
Fix: Make relief cuts, support workpiece better, don’t force tight curves.
Burning in wood:
Cause: Dull blade, too slow on speed or orbital, wrong blade type.
Fix: Replace blade, increase speed slightly.
Recommended jigsaws
Bosch JS470E — Best corded jigsaw
Price: ~$130–160
Why it’s the pick: Bosch’s JS series is the benchmark for corded jigsaws. The JS470E has barrel-grip ergonomics preferred by many users, very smooth blade action, and Bosch’s excellent blade-change system. Corded means consistent power for long cuts.
Search for Bosch JS470E jigsaw on Amazon
Milwaukee M18 2737 — Best cordless jigsaw
Price: ~$150–180 tool only
Why it’s here: The M18 Milwaukee jigsaw is a top performer in the cordless category — consistent orbital action, anti-vibration, and tool-free blade changes. If you’re on the M18 platform, this is the obvious choice.
Search for Milwaukee M18 2737 jigsaw on Amazon
FAQ
Can a jigsaw cut metal?
Yes, with the right blade — a bi-metal or HSS blade with 18–24 TPI, low speed, and cutting lubricant (light machine oil or WD-40) on the cut line. For thin sheet metal and aluminum: very doable. For thick steel: slow going.
What’s the maximum thickness a jigsaw can cut?
Depends on the blade length and saw power. Most jigsaws can cut 2”+ softwood with standard blades. For thicker material, use a longer blade and reduce speed.
Should I buy a jigsaw or a circular saw first?
Circular saw if you primarily do framing, sheathing, and straight cuts. Jigsaw if your work involves curves, cutouts, and detailed shapes. Many woodworkers own both — they’re complementary rather than overlapping tools.